Showing posts with label Costume. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Costume. Show all posts

Saturday, 26 February 2011

{a dash of japonisme}

Japonisme galore! I love a hint, no a DASH of the Orient. The colours, the layering of patterns over more delicious prints, fruit blossoms and embroidered silks. The kimono, haori and obi are phenomenal canvases for some of the most beautiful textiles in the world, and yet still somehow conform to the petite frames of their wearers without overwhelming themI. An endless source of inspiration.

Sunday, 12 December 2010

{black swan}

Black Swan was incredible. I highly recommend seeing it splashed across an enormous screen, and as RoRo pointed out, it's like being in the audience at the Ballet that unfolds throughout the story. With costumes designed by Amy Westcott, and the ballet tutus by Rodarte (the label created by the Mulleavy sisters), Black Swan is also a feast for the eyes. Here are some interview excerpts about the design inspirations...

“If I had imagined a dream film, this is definitely the one to sign us up for,” Laura said. “The big question was, how can you create a whole Swan Lake ballet to coincide with the modern set of this film?” But that wasn’t the only big question—the other was one few designers encounter: How can you make clothes that are ballet-friendly? “It was very technical, because everyone had to be able to dance,” Kate added. “For example, the crown—the demon Rothbart has a metal crown that’s made with horns, and the Black Swan has a metal crown in chrome. That was a big debate, whether they could wear them as dancers.”

But necessity was the mother of invention. The crowns made it into the film, where they’re chillingly dramatic in its final scenes—but chrome they’re not. The Mulleavys ended up making the Black Swan crown out of lightweight copper, which they then burned to achieve their desired effect. “The crown is so coveted because it is symbolic of getting the role of the Swan Queen in Swan Lake—it’s part of this whole thing of getting the role. When it was time to do the Black Swan, that more intensely had to be linked to this demonic, menacing idea, [so] using metal became more important,” said Laura (on set with Portman, below). “Technically it was almost impossible, but we made it work.”

As to be expected, Rodarte sought inspiration in some bizarre places while designing the ballet costumes for Black Swan. "We imagined him like a mechanical bird — his breast is even padded out like a bird," Laura Mulleavy said of the costume for Prince Siegfried, which features distressed velvet with a floral embroidered cheesecloth overlay. "It looks like a spider web's taken over him ... He's like a demon." Meanwhile, Odette's costume involves a flat, pancake-shaped tutu made of white angora wool, which looks like "tree branches growing [on the skirt]," she described. Which is not very sexy, but definitely not boring either.
"We had an affinity for the subject matter," noted Kate Mulleavy. "We had never done a film. ... This would be a dream job in terms of just getting to make tutus. But, then we had, I think, something that allowed us to add to access the psychology of the film in a different way, which was understanding the darker nature and more of the twisted kind of underbelly of that world."

Thursday, 1 July 2010

a fistful of *designs*



I have finally scanned in all my designs so as to make up my website, but I thought I'd post a few here too. So here is my Mack the Knife! And below a pair of his trusty whores and the vulgar Mr Peachum. I really did enjoy creating this project which was very much character-led. Hope you enjoy them...



Monday, 21 June 2010

degree *show*



So not only is my website up and running - www.jessicagelpke.com - but so is my degree show space. It closes this wednesday, but if you get a chance, it's at Wimbledon College of Arts on the Merton Hall Road, Wimbledon, London. All the work on display is uploaded onto my website, but there are so many great designers and makers on show, it'd be a shame to miss their work too. Above you can see some of my cards arranged in a pair of decorated shoes, ready to be plucked!


Monday, 14 June 2010

{coming soon}


I have been so very busy this week, finishing up exams and now preparing to set up the degree show... the show will be open to the public Saturday 19th June, and, skipping Sunday, will end on Wednesday 23rd. It will be displayed at Wimbledon College of Arts on Merton Hall Road, and there are so many exciting things being put up besides the costume department, so come if you are nearby or interested! And last but not least, I'm assembling a rather rudimentary website too. Here's a little peak at of one of my designs that will be on the site. Coming soon!

Wednesday, 9 June 2010

* * *


Alas, the end is nigh - i have finished the very last exam for my costume design degree. I just watched Shakespeare in Love again tonight, and suddenly remembered how it all began the day I went to see the costumes up close in an exhibition. I love the mixture of well-worn clothes that make the Elizabethan style look almost contemporary, combined with the jewel tones, rich embroideries and white-worked linen undergarments. Each scene takes my breath away... sigh.

Sunday, 9 May 2010

{fit for a sorceress}


Sidonia Von Bork

I recently came upon this painting of Sidonia Von Bork by Burne-Jones, and of course, my mind immediately retraced back to that dress from Tim Burton's Sleepy Hollow. Or I should say, Colleen Atwood's dress who drew references from these stunning pre-raphaelite paintings. Sidonia is currently part of the Tate collections, and their blurb reads:

"Sidonia von Bork is the central character in Wilhelm Meinhold's gothic romance 'Sidonia the Sorceress'. The novel is set in sixteenth-century Pomerania and chronicles the crimes of the evil Sidonia, whose beauty captivates all who see her. She is
shown here at the court of the dowager Duchess of Wolgast, one of the early intrigues in a career that leads to her execution as a witch".

I mean, what a dress for an aristocratic witch! But the real designer here is Giulio Romano who designed the original portrait of Isabella d'Este, c.1531(below). It truly is an inspired dress, but it is also more than that; the women who wear them each possess a certain strength, an innate witchiness. This dress is a character unto itself, without overshadowing the wearer. I first saw Sleepy Hollow when I was just 11 years old, and this dress has stayed with me ever since.

Isabella D'Este

Miranda Richardson as Lady Van Tassel

Venetian Ladies Listening to the Serenade by Frank Cadogan-Cowper

Vanity by Frank Cadogan-Cowper

*tasty*



Another costume fantasy, this time made and designed by Elizabeth Richards based on the given title "taste". It was paraded at the National Gallery last summer, but Lizzie decided to have a little shoot this afternoon at my place which was a little more in keeping with the character... and these are some of my photos, stolen inbetween Lizzie's far more professional ones with a film camera and tripod. It was so much fun to arrange all the cakes and strawberries, and Alice Speak, the lovely model, did a wonderful job at embodying her inner buxom beauty. Let the feast begin!






Saturday, 8 May 2010

{the kensington palace project}



And here's how I made it! This is the workbook I have to compile for my course, including all the samples and descriptions of how I made the costume. It's taken three times as long as it should have, but it was so much fun to do a bit of scrap-booking and have a break from all the designing we've been doing lately. I'm also in the middle of building a website, so more on that soon!


Patterns blocks...


Samples of the raw fabrics i used. Only six! including what i used on the crown!



These were taken at the college show in february, where we had to present a costume at a wearable stage. As you can see, it was no where near finished, but i'm still quite fond of the simpler, plain linen version. Especially the skeleton crown where you can actually see my spot welding work!


Screen printing the meters and meters of linen...


I altered a pair of vintage white kid gloves, and then embroidered into them with a contrasting grey running stitch.


The shoes were so much fun! i bought a pair of white silk wedding shoes on ebay for £3.50 which were consequently tea-stained, sprayed and glued. The tea didn't really do anything, as i couldn't leave them in for very long with out melting the glue that's holding them together! So i sprayed them, then covered them in distressed metallic organza.



And the final result in the palace gardens...

Friday, 30 April 2010

*faded glory*



Hello! More on the costume. It's been a very long and fruitful day at Kensington Palace. I thought i'd share some of the final shots in the rose garden (sadly lacking in roses) from the end of the show, so you can se the full effect of hair, make-up and crown! There were many other costumes besides this one which I would like to share, but first, I need permission from the designers so mine will have to do for now! Now, time for some sleep...

A royal ghost of the palace? This one looks a bit Alice in Wonderland, with red roses spilling out of a marble fireplace and a white queen inhaling their fragrance...

Thursday, 22 April 2010

{little preview}



Here's a little glimpse of what i've been working on for the past few months. Hopefully, it'll all be ready by next friday in time for the costume's debut at the Palace! I took these today during rehearsal, and my model Jenny did such a great job I thought i'd post a few...


* * *

Friday, 26 February 2010

the {greatest} show on earth!



It's nothing less than The Greatest Show on Earth! A 1952 backstage pass to the surreal world of life in the circus. Though I was researching the costumes and colour palette, I was rather tickled by the close shots of the audience responses to the death-defying acts of wonder. I slipped in the photo above because though not audience members, their expressions are fantastic. That and the guy crashed out in the background!



I know I was inspired to look into some retro hairstyles after this! I love these girls' pink accents, especially the contrasting sweaters. They still seem so fresh and modern.